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New Zealand Engineering 1999 June Feature A feature by Stuart Andrews I find it hard to wrap my mind around China, one of the world’s largest countries and the most populous. It has the oldest civilisation in existence. The social system that endured until the early part of the 20th century was first stabilised about 3,500 years ago, and Chinese hosts are proud to show their ancient culture. Chinese culture combines complementary philosophical systems such as Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism. In the remote, autonomous northwest, Islam prevails. Ethnic groups and cultures vary from province to province and I can only provide a few personal impressions and experiences. Air
and landscape The transport of massive amounts of coal from the northwest to the more developed southeast is causing major bottlenecks on China’s railway and road systems. When we travelled by road from Henan to Anhui province, a police vehicle with wailing siren and flashing lights was needed to escort us past coal trucks that were travelling bumper-to-bumper for mile after mile. Presumably, drivers were being paid for the tonnage delivered because most of the trucks were grossly overloaded with their sides extended upward by temporary bamboo screens in order to carry larger loads. This inevitably resulted in numerous breakdowns due to broken springs or axles. In the harsh Siberian climate of Heilongjiang Province in Manchuria, where temperatures are commonly at -30oC, flue gases from domestic coal burning stoves are ducted through a raised brick platform like an altar inside homes. This acts like a night-store heater with the inhabitants sitting, eating, and sleeping on the platform. If the ducting system were to leak, the people could be poisoned by the flue gases. In my work for a multilateral development bank, I have visited several of the poorer inland provinces, and my second lasting impression is the lack of trees over vast tracts of north and central China. Originally much of China was forested, but over the centuries the trees have been cut. Consequently the land has eroded, with soil and crops being washed away during torrential rains. Agriculture is the main occupation of the poorer people in these provinces. They farm the land by hand, fertilising it with human and animal manure and irrigating it with flood waters that deposit silts on the land. Most farmers live in mud huts and I have seen some living in caves. This contrasts dramatically with provincial capital cities and especially Shanghai and Beijing cities, which continue to undergo massive development despite the economic crisis that first hit in mid-1997. In both these modern municipalities aerial roads and high-rise commercial buildings continue to sprout up. There may be more overhead construction cranes in Shanghai than in the whole of New Zealand. There are many luxurious world-class five-star hotels and I have seen more Mercedes Benz motor vehicles in these municipalities than in many western cities; the "socialist market economy" is alive and well. As a hang-over from the communist past, a number of industries and provincial utilities are like social welfare organisations. In addition to their core activities, they provide housing, medical care, and education for their thousands of employees. It is not uncommon for such organisations to own and operate businesses including hotels, restaurants, and massage parlours. While these non-core activities could be spun off as stand-alone profit centres, it is not easy to do the same with social welfare activities such as hospitals and schools. Central government is also currently undergoing massive restructuring, reducing the number of ministries, introducing internationally accepted accounting practices, separating regulatory and enterprise functions, and creating "independent" state-owned corporations. Forming business relationships It takes time to form business relationships in China and, particularly when dealing with state-owned corporations. The power and authority of central government pervades. A good example of this is the need to seek approval of the State Bid Evaluation Committee for contract awards carried out under international competitive bidding. Unemployment continues to grow in China and is exacerbated by restructuring. Therefore, where possible, preference will be given to local manufacture. It is important to get to know your potential business partner over a period of time. Determine who the movers and shakers are within a particular organisation. Such facilitators may not necessarily be the person with the highest status but could be someone a tier or two lower. I have found that the best facilitators are also card-carrying members of the Communist Party. These people are not necessarily ruled by political dogma but rather, as facilitators, they can get decisions made and projects implemented. Unless you know your host or potential business partner fairly well, avoid offering your views on sensitive topics such as politics, human rights, and religion. On the one hand, the Chinese are very egalitarian people who respect and include others irrespective of the job they do. Therefore, meetings are often stacked with people including some who may only have a remote connection to the topic being discussed. On the other hand, rank and status still play an important role and you need to determine very quickly not only who commands the highest status but also who are likely to be the key decision makers. While business cards can help, don’t be fooled by the English translations that sometimes appear on them. A "senior engineer, professor rank" may not be as important as the card implies. Remember also that China sets an example for the rest of the world to follow with women making up about 50 percent of total employment in government and industry, and it could well be a woman who commands the highest status among your contacts. Often, during negotiations, what you may regard as a fundamental issue or problem will be readily agreed or resolved with little debate, whereas some other obscure issue that seems far less important to you suddenly takes on far greater significance. If you are well briefed on the background pertaining to the sector in which you are doing business, you may be able to perceive why a particular issue has suddenly become so important. Often, however, it is not until a considerable time later when relationships have been developed that the significance of a particular issue becomes clear. Because the Chinese like to break promptly for lunch and dinner, consider raising what might be a contentious issue around about half an hour before the expected meal break. If you are lucky, it will be discussed and resolved quickly so as not to delay the repast. Professionalism Entertainment Alcohol is usually consumed during meals, with a lot of convivial toasting. Watch your host. If the host selects a table wine for toasts then you have been let off lightly. Usually, at a formal banquet, the host chooses "rice wine" which is, in fact, very strong, clear, local liquor similar to schnapps. This liquor has a lingering taste and smell all of its own. Renowned brands are "Moutai" and "Gujing". In addition to this liquor, you are given a choice of soft drinks. As a tip, if your host has chosen "rice wine" then you should choose a tall glass of mineral water. If you are the head of your delegation you will be the focus of numerous toasts from all members of the Chinese team. Your host will propose the first toast and, as a mark of respect, you will be expected to down at least the first glass – "gan bei" or "bottom up". If you take a sip of water immediately after the toast you will be able to either dilute the spirit or quietly return it to your glass of water. As the banquet progresses and the proceedings become livelier, you may be able to surreptitiously pour water into your spirit glass. Later during the proceedings you should make one or more toasts yourself. It is also appropriate to get up from the high table and toast those sitting at other tables to show that they are not forgotten. If the banquet is a farewell meal after the successful completion of business, you will certainly increase your standing and create a lasting impression if you are able to thank at least all the Chinese participating organisations, if not all individuals by name. Some table manners may be different to those that you are used to. For instance, it is quite common to slurp soup. When using a toothpick always cover your mouth with your other hand. Also, if you are able, be prepared to join in favourite Chinese pastimes of karaoke and ballroom dancing. The former may take place during a meal and you will be expected to sing along or to sing some other song that you may know. I taught myself the first verse of "Pokarekare Ana" which has an easy tune to remember. Cuisine - delicacies and curiosities Chinese food is a treat to be savoured. I regard the Chinese to be excellent cooks, particularly of seafood such as fish and lobster. Perhaps this is not surprising because usually the seafood is kept alive until moments before it is cooked. Freshwater fish cooked with ginger and herbs is a specialty in Heilongjiang Province. The dish is usually placed on the table with the head of the fish facing the senior foreign guest. Prior to its serving, a ritual is observed: the guest is expected to pick out a fish eye with chopsticks and offer it to someone he or she honours – it is best to offer it to your host – and then drink a glass of liquor. The person facing the fish tail will then turn the tail over with chopsticks and also drink a glass of liquor. When eating crab, observe your hosts’ actions and do not be afraid to pick up pieces and break them apart with your bare hands. Usually a bowl of water is provided to wash your fingers afterwards. The Chinese do not waste any part of a slain beast and it is not uncommon to find that you are offered webbed duck feet or pig’s trotters to suck upon. A banquet can consist of 15 to 20 dishes or courses and you can expect to be honoured with special delicacies. Examples that spring to mind are snake and turtle. The shell of the latter is usually offered to the senior guest because it has a gel that is reputed to be an aphrodisiac. In coastal provinces, live shrimps are served in a bowl of rice liquor. The liquor renders them drunk so that they can be eaten fresh while in this stupor. In Henan province, crunchy deep-fried scorpions are offered. Initially I was concerned about their stings, but after watching my hosts dig in, I assumed that the stings must be rendered harmless by the boiling oil. I found scorpions to be very tasty, not unlike shrimp. Gift giving is part of the Chinese business culture and usually occurs publicly at a farewell banquet. Often the gift may be something for which the region is renowned such as its liquor, tea or ceramics. You may be tempted to return gifts for ethical reasons. However, remember that returning a gift can cause considerable loss of face. Instead, a good approach is to be prepared to give a few gifts from New Zealand to the highest ranked among your hosts in return. I find that sheepskin products and pictorial books of New Zealand scenery and flora and fauna are well received. You cannot consider that you have truly visited China unless you have visited Beijing’s most famous sites: the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, and, of course, the Great Wall. A gondola can carry one to the uppermost parts of the Great Wall at Badaling. However, the Chinese say you should earn your good luck by climbing up step by step. Likewise the vast terracotta army of Emperor Qin Shi Huang has become one of the modern wonders of the world. It is fortunate that the Chinese Government has built vast enclosures over these diggings because of the seriously polluted air in the city of Xian, once the cradle of Chinese civilisation. Be warned, however, that you are not allowed to take photographs inside and I saw aggressive guards removing film from errant tourists’ cameras. Personal memories include the Russian architecture in Harbin as well as its annual ice festival with the creation of intricate life-size sculptures that last several months until the summer thaw begins. When in Harbin, I also visited a park containing the endangered Siberian tiger. To honour our delegation, a live cow was placed in the enclosure. Events took their course with the cow being stalked and eventually torn apart. I had mixed feelings, knowing that I was observing nature in action but that the poor cow had been placed there through human intervention and never stood a chance. In central Henan province I was fortunate to watch kung fu demonstrations by the monks of Shaolin Temple on more than one occasion. I have seen novices, barely teenagers, jumping high into the air with the grace of ballet dancers and then crack their feet as they practice their kung fu kicks. I was asked to punch one of the masters in his stomach – it was like hitting a concrete wall! He then placed a metal bowl on his stomach and with the combination of suction and stomach muscles, our entire delegation pulling together could not remove it! I would have regarded some feats as magical illusions if I had not seen them with my own eyes. I was asked to examine a flat iron bar about one-quarter of an inch thick that one of the monks then proceeded to break across the top of his head. My hand was pricked with a razor sharp spear. One of the monks then placed the point of the spear on his jugular vein and leaned forward so that the shaft of the spear bowed. The spear only left a minor indentation on his throat. In northwest Anhui province, I visited the home of Chinese medicine and was amazed at the vast array of herbs, potions, and interesting smells at the large market of traditional medicine at Bozhou. Chinese scroll paintings often portray pictures of what I thought were unreal sharp stylised mountains shrouded in mist – how wrong I was! The famous steep lofty peaks of Huangshan (the Yellow mountains) in south Anhui province are a pure natural beauty just as depicted by Chinese artists. So, you can see that even on a working trip to China, you will come away with a kaleidoscope of impressions, sights, sounds and flavours. Stuart Andrews works for the Asian Development Bank in the Philippines |
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